Overview

 

Spain offers visitors a richness, complexity, and contrasts that may surprise. Spain is Europe's second-most mountainous country after Switzerland, and the climate varies dramatically according to altitude as well as latitude. In the province of Granada, it is possible to ski in the mountains and lounge on a beach, both in the same day. There are super-fast trains, and there are villages where life goes at a pace that has changed little for centuries. All the tempting postcard fantasy pictures are there in reality, side-by-side with other, less-expected ones. The contrasts, the colors, and the vibrant spirit of the place will stay with you for a long time.

 

Spain's widely-varied main attractions are: historical sites, lively cities, some of the finest art in the world, castles, cathedrals, shopping, the White Villages, traditional fiestas, cultural events, beaches, museums, caves, hiking, watersports and great food. Among the chief attractions are those that are unique in the world: the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao with its mind-bending shapes, Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona with its exuberant architecture, and the glorious Alhambra, a Moorish palace whose size and beautiful intricacies are unrivalled.

 

Anyone who likes to travel will enjoy Spain. From its art museums and its tapas bars to its beaches, Spain's appeal is so broad that it's truly a country with something for everyone.

 

Dining Overview

 

Part of the pleasure of dining in Spain is variety—each region has a distinctive style. Galicia is known for its wonderful seafood (octopus is one of our favorites); the Basque country for its bacalao (a preserved salt cod that tastes better than it sounds); Castile for its cheese, grilled meats and cochinillo (roast suckling pig); Extremadura for Iberian or Serrano ham (a dry-cured spiced ham similar to Italy's Prosciutto di Parma); Navarra for trout and chorizo (a spicy sausage); Andalusia for gazpacho, salmorejo and ajo blanco (delicious chilled soups) and tapas; Catalonia for grilled rabbit, romesco (a sweet pepper sauce traditionally eaten with grilled spring onions) and butifarra (blood sausage).

 

Of course, no meal is complete without a bottle of good Spanish wine. In supermarkets and restaurants there is always a good selection of tinto (red), blanco (white) and rosado (rose) wines, often at bargain prices. Rioja is considered by many to be the best wine-growing region.

 

The Spanish eat at very different times than what many Americans are used to. They start lunch at 1:30 pm; dinner, at 9 pm or later, especially in summer. Tapas are often served in the mid-afternoon.

 

 Destination: Madrid

 

Madrid, Spain, strikes a balance between constant, almost chaotic motion and uncompromising leisure. Madrilenos, as Madrid's residents are called, seem always to be on the go, except when they're taking long breaks to eat, drink and enjoy life. The competing urges to move or sit for hours are cleverly reconciled in the Madrid institution known as ir de tapas, which entails leisurely hopping from one tapas bar to the next.

 

As a visitor to Madrid, you'll invariably be drawn into the city's stream of movement as you rush to see one more art collection, taste Castilian, Basque or Galician dishes at neighborhood restaurants, or buy tickets for an evening performance. But take a cue from Madrilenos and incorporate some quiet time into your hectic schedule: People-watch at a terrace cafe, study the mystical quality in El Greco's paintings, savor the subtle hint of saffron in a dish, and appreciate the mournful beauty of flamenco. Take a deep breath, then move on to the next stop.

 

Madrid at a glance: 

 

Sights—The central and symbolic Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun); the lovely Plaza Mayor; Palacio Real de El Pardo and the nearby statue-lined Plaza de Oriente; the monumental arch that is Puerta de Alcala; the 18th-century fountains along Paseo del Prado.

 

Museums—The Goya, Velazquez, Bosch and El Greco paintings at the Museo Nacional del Prado; the works of Picasso, Dali, Gris and Miro at the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia; the medieval, baroque, and 19th- and 20th-century masterworks at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. If you're ambitious (and fit) enough to tackle these “Big Three” museums all in one day, you can purchase a combination ticket called the Paseo del Arte.

 

Memorable Meals—Tapas at bars in El Centro (downtown), particularly any of those near Cava Baja and around Plaza de Santa Ana; roast suckling pig at Sobrino de Botin; Basque cuisine at Zalacain; authentic cocido madrileno at Lhardy; Valencian paella at Casa de Valencia; seafood at Restaurante Rafa.

 

Late Night—Virtually anywhere around Plaza de Santa Ana, along Calle Huertas or in the neighborhoods of Lavapies, Malasana and Chueca; a flamenco show at Casa Patas or Cafe de Chinitas; mingling with the beautiful people at Teatro Joy Eslava or Moma 56.

 

Walks—Old Madrid, including the Barrio de las Letras; Retiro Park; from Plaza de Espana up Gran Via; the tree-lined Paseo del Prado; the luxuriant Real Jardin Botanico; the charming Parque del Oeste; the walkways beside the River Manzanares.

 

Especially for Kids—Amusement-park thrills at Parque de Atracciones; weekend entertainment and recreation at Retiro Park; interactive science exhibits at Museo de la Ciencia: CosmoCaixa; the plants and wildlife at Faunia; the colorful sets at Warner Bros. Park.

 

Though Madrid is best known as a museum city, we suggest you begin your visit by getting to know the older sections of town. Start with Calle Mayor and Plaza Mayor, which are lined by beautiful and historic buildings. Explore the many narrow and winding streets south and west of Puerta del Sol (plan several hours to see this area). Then visit Palacio Real, the royal palace, with its own art treasures and crown jewels. At night, view the illuminated fountain at Plaza de Cibeles and the action pulsing around Puerta del Sol.

 

It's very possible to get museumed-out in Madrid. If this happens, take a rest at one of the beautiful parks and lakes in the city. One of the most charming parks—first laid out in the 17th century—is El Retiro, near the Prado. Rent a rowboat and glide among the ducks that rule the park's small lake. On weekends, the park becomes a hive of activity with musicians, painters and street theater. Retiro is also a favorite haunt of Madrid's immigrant community.

 

Nightlife and entertainment

 

Madrid is a nocturnal city: There's almost more to do in the early hours than in the daytime, and traffic jams at 4 am aren't unusual. Bars tend to shut down around 3 am on weekends, but some discos and clubs are open until after breakfast time. During summer months, terraza bars spring up throughout the city center and along busy Paseo de la Castellana and Paseo de Recoletos, especially close to Plazas de Colon and de Cibeles, and are open until early morning.

 

Cafe theaters provide a variety of shows, and you can readily find live music, such as the traditional flamenco, along with jazz, blues, R&B, rock 'n' roll, punk rock and even salsa. After about 9 pm, a dressed-to-impress crowd flocks into the streets.

 

Visit the cafes, tapas bars and terraces in Chueca or along the Cava Alta and the Cava Baja, just next to the Plaza Mayor. After dinner, go for drinks anywhere along Calle Huertas and around Plaza de Santa Ana.

 

Smoking is no longer permitted in any indoor restaurant, bar, tavern, disco or pub, so, if you need a smoke, simply go out onto the pavement, indulge and then go back to mingle with the crowd inside.

 

Madrid has impressive venues and well-regarded companies for various forms of music and dance. Teatro Real hosts operas staged by its resident company, as well as dance performances by national and international troupes. The Auditorio Nacional is home to Spain's Orquesta Nacional, as well as a top venue for international artists on tour. Zarzuela, a homegrown style of operetta often described as comic opera, is performed at various theaters in the city, particularly at Teatro de la Zarzuela.

 

Madrid also has some outstanding dance companies, whose choreographers and dancers present an innovative approach to ballet, modern and contemporary dance, and flamenco. Theater (almost entirely in Spanish) is big in Madrid, too.

 

Shopping

 

There is definitely no shortage of stores, shopping centers, merchandise or eager shoppers in Madrid. Although prices have been rising throughout Spain over the past decade to a level on par with those of other European countries, shopping in Madrid is, on the whole, more affordable than in cities such as London or Paris.

 

The shopping street of Serrano in Salamanca district, just east of Paseo de la Castellana, is full of expensive boutiques, home-decorating stores and stylish shops, including Chanel and Armani. The streets around Puerta del Sol form a more traditional (less exclusive) shopping mecca. The area is home to the city's largest department stores and specialty shops that have been in business since the 1800s. Other streets worth seeking out are Calle Cruz and Carrera de San Jeronimo.

 

Shopping hours are generally Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1:30 or 2 pm and 5-8 or 8:30 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 or 2 pm. On Sunday, many bookstores and convenience stores are open, and major department stores are open the first Sunday of every month. Many department stores also stay open at lunchtime throughout the week. All the shops and stores around the Puerta del Sol are open every Sunday.

 

 

Destination: Barcelona

 

Barcelona, Spain, is inextricably linked to the architecture of Antoni Gaudi. His most famous and unfinished masterpiece, the Church of Sagrada Familia, is the emblem of the city. Like the church, Barcelona takes traditional ideas and presents them in new, even outrageous, forms. And the city's bursts of building and innovation give the impression that it's still being conceived. Both the cathedral and the city can be tough places to get a handle on, yet their complexity is invigorating rather than forbidding. Barcelona is a place to visit as much for its energetic, cosmopolitan character as for its unusual attractions.

 

Barcelona is an important stopping-off point for major cruise lines in the Mediterranean – even the largest ocean liners can dock in its port – and along with that, the city is as much of a major cultural center to Spain as is Madrid. It is capital of a region called Catalonia, which some may be surprised to learn has its own language, Catalan, a Romance language that has co-official status alongside Castilian (Spanish). Many Catalonians take extreme pride in their identities as such. Politically, the city and region have become increasingly detached from Madrid's centralist rule; in 2010, more than a million Catalans demonstrated in favor of independence from the rest of Spain. That same year their official abolition of bullfighting—effective from 2011—was in effect a further rejection of deep-rooted Spanish traditions.

 

Barcelona at a glance:

 

Sights—La Sagrada Familia; La Pedrera; La Catedral (La Seu); Santa Maria del Mar; Parc d'Atraccions del Tibidabo.

 

Museums—Museu Picasso; Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya; Museu d'Historia de Catalunya; Museu Maritim de Barcelona; Fundacio Joan Miro.

 

Memorable Meals—Lunch at Escriba Xiringuito on the seafront; high-end Mediterranean fare at Neichel; seafood at Botafumeiro; fashionable, inventive dishes at Semproniana; stylish tapas at Comerc 24.

 

Late Night—Flamenco at Los Tarantos in summer; drinks and a view at Mirablau; wine at La Vinya del Senyor; dancing at Otto Zutz or Club Fellini.

 

Walks—La Rambla, the Barri Gotic and the Born; along the waterfront; Montjuic; Parc Guell; Collserola woodlands.

 

Especially for Kids—Zoo de Barcelona; L'Aquarium de Barcelona; a ride on the roller coaster at Parc d'Attraccions del Tibidabo.

 

Sightseeing

 

Sooner or later, you must take a walk down La Rambla, Barcelona's famous thoroughfare, so you may as well make it sooner. It's a great introduction to the city, and it will put you in good position to see other nearby attractions.

 

If you head northeast from La Rambla, you'll enter the twisting, ancient streets of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Find your way to the grandiose La Seu cathedral as you explore the district. Nearby is the Museu d'Historia de Barcelona (City History Museum). The Barri Gotic also holds several other treasures, so you may want to plan more than one day in the area. The highlights are the Museu Picasso (get there early to avoid the lines) and another magnificent Gothic church, Santa Maria del Mar. It's fun just to amble through the streets, however, especially in the evening, when you can sample many restaurants and bars in the contrasting Raval (earthy-international) and Born (avant-garde chic) districts.

 

You'll need at least a day to take in the famous sights from the modernisme movement in architecture. Before you start, stop in at the Ruta del Modernisme center at the tourist office in Placa Catalunya (and other locations), where you can get maps, a guidebook and discount vouchers to the city's 115 modernisme monuments. For more information, visit http://www.rutadelmodernisme.com.

 

Begin at Manzana de la Discordia, on Passeig de Gracia in the Eixample district, where you can see three adjacent buildings built by the best-known architects of the movement. Next, head a few blocks north to Antoni Gaudi's amazing building La Pedrera (or Casa Mila), which houses residential apartments, offices and an exhibition center. Plan at least two hours to see them and to walk around among the rooftop sculptures. From the roof, you'll be able to see the spires of Sagrada Familia in the distance, and that's your next stop. (You can walk there in a leisurely half-hour jaunt or catch the metro's Blue Line at the Diagonal Station near La Pedrera.) Close out the day at Gaudi's intricately surrealistic church. Be sure to go up in the spires for a vertigo-inducing look at the church and the city. A visit to Gaudi's Parc Guell, on the northern side of the city, is also recommended, though you will probably have to fit it into another day.

 

Montjuic, the hill rising southwest of the city center, merits a day of its own. Both the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and Fundacio Joan Miro are found on Montjuic, as are several less cultural and more hedonistic attractions, including Poble Espanyol (a theme "village" incorporating architectural styles from all over Spain and a host of shops and restaurants), the Olympic stadium and Pavello Barcelona. Just strolling around this multifaceted green area is pleasant, and it offers some splendid panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean coastline. Figure your route ahead of time, however, as Montjuic covers a lot of territory and the attractions are widely spaced.

 

Nightlife and entertainment

 

Barcelona has always had a reputation as a party town. It's still true, though the emphasis now has more to do with trendy designer bars than seedy sailor dives. The rougher places are still there, though, especially in earthy districts such as Raval, should you wish to find them. Like other parts of Spain, Barcelona's club scene hits its peak in the wee hours and doesn't end till morning—many dance venues remain open until 5 am, though quieter bars close around 1 or 2 am.

 

Try to set aside one evening for a stroll through the Barri Gotic, in particular the Born area, and see what bars and bodegas the twisting streets lead you to. In warm weather, you'll find that lots of outdoor plazas become extensions of the surrounding bars, and performers such as jugglers and musicians often stop by to put on a quick show. Those looking for a little more excitement will find the clubs of Port Vell and Vila Olimpica not too far away. The gay crowd might enjoy the bars in Eixample.

 

There are more options outside the city center. In general terms, the higher up and farther away from the sea you go, the more upmarket the scene. A young, affluent crowd hangs out in bars and clubs around Santalo and Placa Francesc Macia. Tibidabo, with its wonderful views of the city, offers an incomparably elegant setting.

 

Given Barcelona's other artistic leanings, it's not surprising that the performing arts are well-represented in the city.

 

Theater has always enjoyed great vitality in Barcelona, and several dance companies call Barcelona home. There's also opera, chamber music, jazz, symphony and flamenco productions.

 

Theater companies in Barcelona include Dagoll Dagom (http://www.dagolldagom.com), La Cubana (http://www.lacubana.es), Els Joglars (http://www.elsjoglars.com) and Tricicle (http://www.tricicle.com)—all offering the sort of spellbinding, multidisciplinary spectacles that leap over language barriers. None of these companies has a set schedule or theater venue, however, so watch for listings in the newspapers and entertainment guides. 

 

Shopping

 

The industrious Catalans have often been dubbed a nation of shopkeepers, and Barcelona does have a staggering number of shops of every kind and in every neighborhood. Barri Gotic and El Raval, in particular, have many quirky little shops with long family traditions, clinging to survival in the face of malls and big-name merchants. A little shopping time spent around Placa Catalunya will introduce you to El Corte Ingles department store and El Triangle shopping mall.

 

Large or small, many of the city's merchants play to the city's love of design. In clothes, look for Catalan designers such as Antonio Miro and Adolfo Dominguez. Even if you never set foot in a store, you'll get to appreciate the city's sense of style by strolling past elaborate window displays. Food and drink are also highly prized in Barcelona and make good souvenirs. Stock up on olives and cheese at La Boqueria market on La Rambla and cold-pressed virgin olive oil and Spanish wine at a large grocer such as Colmado Quilez.

 

To guide you through this cornucopia, the city has mapped out the 3-mi-/5-km-long Shopping Line, which links different shopping areas that also happen to be dotted with many of the most interesting tourist sights. The comfortable TombBus links the areas, running from Placa Catalunya to El Corte Ingles store at the top end of the Diagonal and back. The Barcelona Card transportation pass will give you a discount at a number of shops on the route: They're identified by the Shopping Line logo—four colored diamonds in a white circle within a blue circle.

 

Shopping hours are generally, Monday-Saturday 9 or 10 am to 1:30 or 2 pm and 4:30 or 5 pm to 7:30-9 pm (closed Saturday afternoon). Many neighborhood food stores and bakeries open at the crack of dawn, have a long break at lunch and are open again 5-9 pm. The department stores, shopping malls and many of the larger stores on the main shopping streets stay open at lunchtime and until 10 pm. In summer, many shops close on Saturday afternoon. Sunday opening is strictly regulated: The big stores and malls are allowed to open on eight Sundays each year, including the four Sundays before Christmas. Otherwise, you'll mostly find only convenience stores and gift shops open on Sunday.

 

Destination: Seville

 

Spend at least two nights in Seville, Spain, to absorb its captivating atmosphere. It's full of twisting, narrow streets overhung by balconies, grand churches, beautiful gardens, squares and parks. Seville is about 245 mi/390 km southwest of Madrid.

 

Already a major trading center when the Romans conquered the Iberian Peninsula, Seville became the most important city in Spain during the Spanish colonial period, when it had a monopoly on trade with the Americas.

 

The city's cathedral is one of the world's largest in the Gothic style—trying to get a sense of its size (or a picture of the building) is difficult because it's hemmed in by so many other structures. Try to see it at night, when it's lit. Inside, four statues hold up a casket that's said to contain the remains of Christopher Columbus, though that's a matter of some contention: The city of Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic also claims to have the explorer's bones.

 

Attached to the cathedral is the Giralda, a tower that once served as the minaret for the mosque that occupied the site before the cathedral was built. You can climb a series of interior ramps to the top of the tower—it offers a superb view of the city.

 

Just across from the cathedral is the entrance to the Alcazar, the magnificent royal residence. Although most of the current structure was rebuilt in the 1300s by the Christian king of Castile, Pedro I, you can still see the strong influence of Mudejar style (named for Moors remaining in Christian-conquered areas). Like the Alhambra in Granada, the Alcazar's many courtyards and halls are decorated with intricately carved stucco and colorful tile work.

 

Adjacent to the cathedral and Alcazar is the old Barrio Santa Cruz. Once the city's Jewish Quarter, it's made up of twisting medieval streets and is the most picturesque part of the city. At night, Santa Cruz is a hot spot for bars and restaurants, and the hotels in the area make a good central base from which to explore.

 

Seville is the spiritual home of flamenco, and several clubs in the Santa Cruz district present performances. A visit to the Museum of Flamenco Dancing on Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos is also illuminating. http://www.museoflamenco.com.

 

Another good area for flamenco is the Triana district, across the river from Santa Cruz and the cathedral. It runs along the water and has lots of eateries and pleasant bars. There, as elsewhere in Seville, restaurants take advantage of the warm, dry climate and place most of their tables outside. It's unusual to find a public square that isn't full of diners.

 

The city is justly famous for two festivals. Semana Santa (Holy Week) takes place just prior to Easter. It's an amazing display of elaborate parades with traditional floats and somber music. La Feria, which occurs during the last week in April, is a wonderful city fair, featuring plenty of food, fun and flamenco.

 

Destination: Costa del Sol

Photo: Malaga

 

The Costa del Sol has some of the finest beaches in Spain. Lying 260 mi/420 km south of Madrid, the famous Sun Coast area officially stretches along the Mediterranean from Nerja (east of Malaga) to Gibraltar. Unofficially, many people think of it as including the beautiful coast south of Granada, the Costa Tropical.

 

Once a pleasant playground, today's Costa del Sol has been overdeveloped and overrun by tourists, especially those arriving on package vacations from northern Europe. Expect lots of high-rise condominiums and hotels, and a wide selection of golf courses, tennis clubs, casinos, discos and outdoor cafes. Deep-sea fishing and sailing are popular in the waters off the coast. Malaga and Marbella are two of the better-known destinations in the area, but there are a number of towns to play in.

 

Many years ago, Torremolinos was an old Costa del Sol fishing village set atop a cliff, with two long, wide beaches, an old mill tower (for which the town is named), whitewashed houses and flowers. But that was before the advent of mass travel by air and the cheap package tour. Torremolinos was the first town on the Costa del Sol to be extensively developed for tourism, and parts of it now look considerably worse for the wear: If you're looking for peace and tranquillity or a quiet beach atmosphere, you won't find it in Torremolinos.

 

You will hear many languages being spoken in these parts (many northern Europeans spend a month or two of the winter in the mild climate). Pubs, beer halls, cafes, smorgasbords and reflections of other international tastes mix with the local Spanish flavor. There are dozens of clubs, bars and discos for nightlife, and flamenco dance performances are easy to find.

 

Perched on a cliff, Nerja is a popular international Costa del Sol seaside resort that retains traces of its fishing-village past and has excellent beaches. Visitors can avail themselves of the rowboat facilities, clear water and isolated coves. Like so many areas of the Costa del Sol, Nerja attracts many English and Scandinavian emigres, who settle in villa complexes, apartments and retirement villages.

 

A nearby attraction is La Cueva de Nerja, a vast stalactite cave that resembles an underground cathedral. Traces of Paleolithic-era paintings, as well as stone weapons and tools, have been found inside. Special music and dance performances are sometimes held in one of the caves.

 

The two most interesting towns on the Costa Tropical are Almunecar and the castle-crowned white town of Salobrena, with long, pebbly beaches.

 

Mijas (pronounced MEE-hahs) is a picturesque, touristy Costa del Sol village with a distinctly Arab feel. Visit its ancient bullring and the Lady of the Rock Church (carved into a hillside rock). You can hire donkeys to transport you around the town.

 

The Costa del Sol is relatively close to Seville, Granada and the White Villages of Andalusia. Try to visit one or more of these on a day trip or, better yet, on an overnight excursion. (Be forewarned, however: You may not want to go back to the Costa del Sol after you've experienced Andalusia's more sublime character.)

 

Malaga

 

Almost in the center of the Costa del Sol, Malaga, Spain, is primarily a commercial city and a hub for transport. (It has the largest and busiest airport in southern Spain.) At first glance, its sprawl may look unappealing, but Malaga is not without its attractions. Its lively old city nicely combines proximity to beaches with cultural and recreational activities.

 

Malaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and the Museo Picasso is the city's main attraction (http://www2.museopicassomalaga.org). You can also tour Casa-Museo Pablo Ruiz Picasso, the house where the artist was born. http://www.fundacionpicasso.malaga.eu.

 

Malaga's other main sights include the 16th-century cathedral (note the wood carvings) and the Moorish palace complex called the Alcazaba. At the foot of the hill containing the Alcazaba is an excavated Roman amphitheater, and up the hill are the ruins of an older Moorish fortress, Gibralfaro (it has great views of the city and coastline from its ramparts).

 

Take time to stroll along the Alameda Principal to admire the greenery and stop at a bodega (wine cellar) to taste the sweet Malaga wine. The atmospheric old quarter has many good tapas bars and restaurants. The best shopping is on and near Calle Larios.

 

Malaga lies 260 mi/420 km south of Madrid and can be seen in one or two nights. It's a good place to experience Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations, but be sure to book your hotel well ahead.

 

Marbella

 

The Costa del Sol town of Marbella, Spain, is a popular vacation spot for wealthy Europeans and Arabs, and a modern Arabian flavor is clearly evident. Marbella (pronounced mar-BAY-ya) is 280 mi/450 km south of Madrid.

 

There are two parts of Marbella. It's easy to get the idea that the modern, traffic-filled urban sprawl is all there is, but look again. Half-hidden away from the brash new Marbella is an extremely picturesque old town center of narrow streets and alleys centring on the Plaza de los Naranjos.

 

Modern Marbella has a fantastic choice of shops, bars, restaurants and nightspots, and there are several acceptable beaches in and near town. Fountains and thousands of trees grace the seaside promenade. Its major fiesta occurs in the middle of June.

 

Along the coast just south of Marbella is the jet-set resort of Puerto Banus (a small port full of yachts and expensive sailboats). The promenade is lined with restaurants, bars, outdoor cafes, expensive boutiques and arts-and-crafts stores. Go for lunch, dinner or simply to have a drink and people-watch.

 

An alternative excursion is Estepona, which has a yacht harbor and lots of nightlife.

 

Destination: Granada

Photo: the Alhambra

 

The foremost reason to go to Granada, Spain, is to visit the magnificent Alhambra and Generalife. The complex of palaces, fortress and gardens (built between the 13th and 15th centuries by the Nasrid dynasty) is a must-see. Plan to spend the better part of a day touring it.

 

During warmer months, the palaces are open at night. Although you won't be able to see the architectural ornamentation as clearly, the atmosphere is incredible and there are fewer visitors then. Viewing the Court of the Myrtles and the Court of the Lions by moonlight is something you'll remember for the rest of your life.

 

Admission to the Alhambra is limited to protect the monument, and it is so popular that lines of up to two hours are not uncommon in high season. It is recommended that you purchase a timed-entry ticket in advance to ensure admission to the complex. For more information, visit http://www.alhambra-patronato.es.

 

Like the Alhambra, the district of the Albayzin, built on the hill opposite the Alhambra, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The medieval, whitewashed quarter's architectural highlights include El Banuelo (an 11th-century bathhouse), the Palacio of Dar al-Horra and the patio of the former main mosque of the Albayzin (preserved as part of the Iglesia del Salvador).

 

There are also several boutique hotels in converted courtyard houses, as well as a good variety of restaurants, bars and teterias (teahouses). The view of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada Mountains from the Mirador de San Nicolas is alone worth a trip to the Albayzin.

 

The cathedral stands on the heart of the old city. The large complex, built where the city's former main mosque once stood, includes the Capilla Real (where Ferdinand and Isabella are interred) and the Church of the Sagrario. Nearby, narrow streets attempt to re-create the old Arab bazaar—mostly souvenir shops there.

 

Off Calle Reyes Catolicos, an ornate, monumental portal is likely to catch your eye. It belonged to a 14th-century inn for traveling merchants, referred to today as the Corral del Carbon. To the south is the Bib-Rambla square, a nice spot to have a drink or dine at an outdoor restaurant. The main shopping streets are just beyond the square.

 

If you're spending more than two days in Granada, which lies 225 mi/350 km south of Madrid, other sightseeing options include the baroque Cartuja monastery, and the church and monastery of San Jeronimo. Fans of the poet and playwright Federico Garcia Lorca can visit his family's country home, Huerta de San Vicente, which is located in a park named for him.

 

Also, if you're there during the winter, you can ski the slopes at the Sierra Nevada ski station, which is about 20 mi/35 km from Granada. During the summer, hikers will enjoy the Alpujarras region on the southern slope of the Sierra Nevada range.

 

Destination: Toledo

 

Toledo, Spain, a beautiful hilltop city on the Tagus River, has a long history. It was the capital of Roman Spain, center of the Visigoth kingdom, imperial capital under Carlos V and manufacturing center of high-quality Toledo steel and swords (cheap imitations of which are still sold locally).

 

Toledo (toe-LAY-doh) is also where artist Domenico Theotocopuli, better known as El Greco, lived and painted. He lived there from 1577 until his death in 1614. He used the city as inspiration, most famously in his piece titled View of Toledo.

 

The city is also a great place for a stroll, as the strong Muslim, Jewish and Christian influences are evident in the narrow winding streets. In 1986, UNESCO named Toledo a World Heritage Site.

 

Architectural highlights include the vast, awe-inspiring Gothic cathedral, the Alcazar, the Cristo de la Luz Mosque, Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, Sinagoga del Transito (serves as the Sephardim Museum) and the tiny Chapel of St. Tome, which houses El Greco's The Burial of the Conde de Orgaz, which many consider his finest painting. Fans of El Greco should stop by the Casa-Museo de El Greco. The Museo de

 

Santa Cruz has a wide-ranging collection of art and artifacts—the building's wooden coffered ceilings are spectacular.

 

Reserve some time to sit in a cafe in one of the squares (we enjoy Plaza de Zocodover) or stop in a local tavern. You can also tour the Toledo gold-jewelry factories. If time doesn't allow a full tour, you can at least pause to watch some of the goldsmiths in their shops. Toledo is especially beautiful at night, when the tour groups are gone and the narrow streets are lit by wrought-iron lanterns.

 

If you're there in the height of summer and the city is crowded with tourists, a nice place to stay is the Parador de Toledo, high on a hilltop over the city on a bend in the river. Though it's not right in town, the inconvenience is more than made up by the spectacular views from the terraces and the rear rooms (the vista is similar to the one portrayed in El Greco's famous View of Toledo).

 

Most visitors see Toledo on a day's excursion from Madrid or while driving to Granada, but we suggest spending at least one night to absorb the atmosphere. It's only 40 mi/75 km southwest of Madrid, and it's an easy train ride.