Overview

 

Costa Rica offers the adventurous traveler an abundance of outdoor activities. Visitors can fly through the rain-forest canopy on a zipline, go white-water rafting, climb a volcano, relax on a white-sand beach, check out colorful marine life while snorkeling, or try to hook a big one on a deep-sea fishing excursion. That's why so many people choose to go there: In the past decade, the number of visitors has more than quintupled, and tourism has become the leading sector of the nation's economy.

 

Costa Rica is practically synonymous with ecotourism—travel that incorporates education about the environment and promotes preservation of natural resources. The country has a large number of national parks and nature preserves that boast a rich array of birds, mammals, reptiles and rain-forest plants. The variety of birds, in particular, is astounding: Some 850 species are packed into a relatively small area.

 

The country also excels in adventure sports, including surfing, mountain biking, river rafting, hiking and scuba diving. Those who prefer a less strenuous vacation can view several active volcanoes, take boat trips down jungle rivers and float through the treetops in a rain-forest aerial tram or speed through the forest canopy on any of several dozen thrilling zipline systems.

 

The main attractions of Costa Rica are amazingly diverse natural beauty, wildlife, bird-watching, black- and white-sand beaches, deep-sea and river fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, casinos, surfing, white-water rafting, volcanoes, horseback riding, good restaurants, world-class resorts and spas, and its friendly, well-educated people (often known simply as Ticos).

 

Those who enjoy exotic plants and animals and those who participate in outdoor activities will get the most out of Costa Rica. To observe the country's varied forests, visitors need to be moderately fit and comfortable with the claustrophobic, often damp jungle environment, or with the hot, dry conditions of the forests in the provinceof Guanacasteas far south as northern NicoyaPeninsula.

 

Geography

 

A small country—just 75 mi/120 km separates the Pacific Oceanfrom the Caribbean Seaat the narrowest spot—Costa Ricastill has some of the most diverse scenery in the world. Its coasts have both sandy beaches and marshy swamps, and its interior is dotted with volcanoes and rugged mountain chains, dense rain forests and abundant, unusual flora.

Its geographic diversity and elevation, ranging from sea level to more than 13,000 ft/4,030 m atop Cerro Chirripo, have blessed the nation with 12 distinct life zones. The most secluded area in Costa Ricais the OsoPeninsulain the southern part of PuntarenasProvince. It is true jungle rain forest, and it has one of the most diverse ecocultures in the world. It is difficult to traverse, and tourists have to receive permission before they are flown in to visit the area.

 

Approximately 25% of the country's land has been set aside in protected areas, earning Costa Ricaa reputation as an environmentally sensitive country and leader in ecological conservation. However, nonprotected areas have not fared so well: During the past few decades, Costa Ricahas had one of the highest rates of deforestation in the world. The country is now coming to terms with the large resorts being built to serve the growing numbers of travelers and a condominium construction boom that has been spawned in its wake.

 

History

 

Columbusfirst saw this portion of Central Americain 1502 during his last trip to the New World. But Spanish settlement did not begin until the mid-1500s because early expeditions were beset by disease and resistance from the indigenous people. The Spanish did find some gold in the area—inspiring the name Costa Rica(RichCoast)—but not the large reserves they sought.

 

Colonization proceeded slowly along the east coast until the Spanish finally moved to the cooler, fertile valleys and mesas of the interior, known as the Central Valley. The predominantly mountainous terrain kept the plantation system, with its attendant slavery, from developing in Costa Rica(an exception was the far northwest plains). Instead, the colonists gathered near the indigenous communities and built small-scale subsistence farms. Towns grew slowly and evolved intense rivalries for political dominance.

 

Such independence and self-reliance are thought to be the reasons democracy came more naturally to Costa Ricathan to its neighbors when the country gained its independence in the early 1820s. Brief civil wars erupted among the major cities in which the more liberal forces of San Joseemerged victorious, moving the country toward fair, democratic elections in the late 1800s and establishing San Joseas the undisputed capital.

 

In the 1940s the country became politically polarized, and civil war broke out once again. After a brief struggle, socialist insurrectionist Jose Maria "Don Pepe" Figueres emerged as the country's leader. He continued to be a central figure in Costa Rican politics through the 1970s, overseeing reforms that helped keep the country peaceful and prosperous in a region known for its armed conflicts and wretched poverty.

 

Costa Ricaabolished its military in 1948 and invested in education and public-health facilities, actions that helped prevent a flood of rural poor into the major cities. These measures have prompted many to view Costa Ricaas a model Latin American country, although it has had its share of economic problems that accelerated in the 1980s and continue today. Costa Ricahas cut back on its extensive social programs to deal with a large national deficit, massive internal debt and a massive influx of Nicaraguan refugees and unemployed. Costa Ricahas, in illegal Nicaraguan neighbors who are seeking the "Costa Rican dream," a problem similar to that of the U.S.with illegal aliens seeking the American dream.

 

The tourism boom that began in the 1980s has brought rapid development to much of the country. Nonetheless, Costa Rica's democratic system has been challenged by corruption and cronyism—several past presidents have been indicted. In 2006, former president Oscar Arias (winner of the 1987 Nobel Peace Prize) was re-elected president after successfully lobbying for a constitutional change permitting presidents to serve more than one term. In 2010, Costa Ricaelected its first female president, Laura Chinchilla.

 

Port Location

 

Costa Ricahas two cruise terminals. On the Caribbeanside, ships dock at Puerto Limon. The Puerto Limon terminal has its own crafts market with more than 100 artists, phones, a pharmacy and salons offering manicures, pedicures and massages when a cruise ship is in port. Taxis are available both inside and outside the terminal gates. Only one block from the town's main square, the Limon port is well-located for exploring on foot. A selection of shops, restaurants and Internet cafes is within a 10-minute walk of the port.

 

On the Pacific, ships dock at the cruise ship pier in PuntarenasCity. A tourist information center and an air-conditioned waiting room offering international call service, a bank and a snack shop are located directly in front of the dock. Cruise visitors are greeted by tour companies promoting trips to popular destinations and a wall of vendors selling arts and crafts along the boardwalk. The town is small enough to explore on foot. A walking map is available at the tourist information center. Outdoor restaurants and cafes are just steps from the dock, many of which line the boardwalk, known as the Paseo de los Turistas.

 

About 20% of arriving ships dock at the container port of Puerto Caldera, 8 mi/13 km south of PuntarenasCity. This dock is primarily used when a transfer is involved. Principally a container ship terminal, Caldera has few facilities for cruise passengers. A tourist information center offering international phone service is open when a ship is in port. Taxis are available.

 

Sightseeing

 

Costa Ricais one of the most biologically diverse areas in the world. It's tucked into a small geographic area, and visitors have huge opportunities to experience nature in its many forms. With flights available throughout the country as well as fast and efficient shuttle services, it's possible to visit TortugueroNational Parkon the Caribbeanone day and CorcovadoNational Parkin the OsaPeninsulathe next. Other spectacular parks, wildlife refuges and biological reserves in Costa Ricainclude ManuelAntonioNational Park, Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve and the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge.

 

Costa Ricais also home to a variety of historical sites. Many of these can be visited in one day from San Jose, including a historic tour of Cartago, former capital of Costa Rica and home to one of the country's most important religious sites; Orosi, where you can visit the 18th-century Iglesia San Jose de Orosi and its adjacent museum; and Turrialba, whose foothills shelter one of the country's most important archaeological sites, Guayabo. Be sure to also make a stop at the LankesterBotanical Garden, as well.

 

An English-language guide to the museums of Costa Ricais available at tourist information centers.

 

Beaches

 

Although Costa Ricais not primarily a beach destination, this dynamic bit of geography has stretches of beach on a par with the Mexican Yucatan or any island in the Caribbean. You'll find laid-back beaches for diving, snorkeling and fishing; others backed by rain forest (or tropical dry forest) where monkeys go down to the shore; and well-developed areas complete with large resort-style hotel complexes.

 

With 735 mi/1,180 km of coastline on two oceans, Costa Ricahas no shortage of beaches. Some of them are practically deserted, but even these relatively uninhabited shores usually have at least one hotel nearby. More than a dozen beaches have been developed to the point where they offer a range of hotels, shops and restaurants, and even casinos and nightclubs. Many of the country's beaches have dangerous riptides, so visitors should always inquire when and where it's safe to swim.

 

The shorter Caribbeancoast has some of the finest beaches in the country, predominantly with black volcanic sand and a tropical island flavor; many are favored by marine turtles for nesting. CahuitaNational Parkhas a lovely, palm-lined beach. The offshore coral reef provides protection from the rough surf, allowing swimming, scuba diving and excellent snorkeling. In addition to a variety of coral species, tropical fish and rays, the waters are also home to nurse sharks, which you may be lucky enough to spot. Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, just south of Cahuita (not to be confused with Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui that lies inland), has a black-sand beach and is renowned for its surfing and laid-back attitude.

 

Many of the country's prettiest and most popular beaches are found in the northwest provinceof Guanacasteand the NicoyaPeninsulaon the Pacific coast. Locals head there to relax, surrounded by a gorgeous landscape and temperate climate. Though not especially attractive, Playa del Coco has calm water, and the fishing village there offers more contact with locals than most beaches. Hermosa, to the north, has a lovely swimming beach with a number of hotels and restaurants. Playa Panama, the next beach to the north, is less developed and has calmer water.

 

The next bay north is the Gulfof Papagayowhere you will find limited public beach access. The ocean is especially calm there, making it a great spot for children and nonswimmers.

 

The well-developed resort of Tamarindo, with the widest selection of accommodations in the area, is also popular with surfers, and you can view sea turtles on evening tours to nearby Playa Grande—a miles-/kilometers-long stretch of white sand also renowned for surfing. South of Tamarindo, there are fewer hotels and the roads can get rough, but the hilly coastal scenery is gorgeous. Nosara, near Ostional, is a beautiful beach where turtles also nest.

 

Farther to the south is Samara, another favorite with surfers and backpackers. Islita and Carrillo also have hotels, and the latter is protected by a nice cove. Around the tip of the NicoyaPeninsulalie the popular beaches of Mal Pais and Santa Teresa, with world-class surf and increasingly upscale hotels and restaurants to match. Nearby Montezuma is good for swimming and snorkeling, and there are plenty of low-budget accommodations, a luxury hotel, and a growing number of cafes and restaurants. A spectacular three-tiered waterfall is within walking distance of town, but be careful as the hike to the falls is treacherous in areas. Montezuma is also a good launching point for those wanting to spend an afternoon on TurtleIslandor take a water taxi to Playa Herradura, near Jaco.

 

Following the curve of the peninsula, next comes the quiet villageof Tamborwith its lush tropical forest. Tambor is just 5 mi/8 km from the ferry terminal to PuntarenasCity. Tambor beach earns the nickname "DrumBeach" because the combination of coral reefs and shallow grade causes the surf to break with an unusual drumming sound. Tambor beach is closest to Paquera where the ferry from Puntarenas docks.

 

Across the Gulfof Nicoya, JacoBeach(the most developed beach resort in the country) is one of the most popular surfing locations but also one of the most dangerous. The extreme southern end of the beach near the Hotel Club del Mar is best for swimming. Nearby Playa Herradura boomed following the construction of a large hotel complex, with a golf course and the country's largest marina. JacoBeachis located 45 mi/75 km southwest of San Joseand is a popular spot with Costa Ricans and those on package tours. There is a wide selection of hotels, but the beach can get crowded on weekends because of its proximity to the capital. Although Jaco is large and popular, it's not necessarily one of the prettiest beaches.

 

Farther south, the miles-/kilometers-long and ruler-straight beaches of Esterillo have begun to blossom. A short distance away is ManuelAntonioNational Parkand the town of Quepos, where dozens of hotels are strung along a ridge with spectacular views over the world-famous national park, with its choice of three beaches (one good for snorkeling). The beaches south of Manuel Antonio have high surf that washes onto volcanic sands backed by mangrove swamps and forest that grow more lush with every mile/kilometer. Dominical, formerly a funky favorite of surfers, has evolved to offer every accommodation from budget surf camp to deluxe villas and ecolodges.

 

An hour south of Dominical is UvitaBeachwith its unique tombolo, or sandbar. The tombolo is shaped like a whale's tale, and it fittingly marks the entrance to the MarinoBallenaNational Park, where northern humpback whales can be viewed December-April and southern humpbacks appear July-October. A few minutes south is OjochalBeach, known for serving some of the best cuisine outside of the capital.

 

In the extreme south, Zancudo and Pavones are palm-shaded beauties backed by rugged mountains, with some of the most fabulous surf in the country.

 

Bird Watching

 

Costa Rica's small size, its diverse ecologies and its numerous national parks make the country a spectacular place for bird-watching—more than 850 species live in Costa Rica. Many companies offer tours specifically designed around bird-watching. One hot spot for birders is the Costa Rican Bird Route (Ruta de las Aves) in the north. The route combines access to remote locations and lodging (http://www.costaricanbirdroute.com). Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui is an easy trip from San Joseand home to 50% of the country's registered bird species.

 

Boating & Sailing

 

Surprisingly, Costa Ricais not a big destination for boating and sailing, despite the large number of private yachters that call in. The virtually ruler-straight Caribbeancoast has very few safe anchorages and as yet has no marinas. By contrast, the Pacific coast is blessed with bays and coves.

 

Fishing

 

Costa Ricahas world-class sportfishing and boasts several well-respected fishing lodges. Some of the main lodges to consider are Rio Colorado Lodge (phone 506-2232-4063 or toll-free 800-243-9777; http://www.riocoloroadolodge.com) and Rio Parismina Lodge (phone 506-2220-7597 or toll-free 800-338-5688; http://www.riop.com).

Most beach resorts on the west coast also offer fishing charters, but the most popular fishing ports are Flamingo, Coco, HerraduraBay, Quepos, DrakeBayand Golfito. Costa Rica Dreams offers a fleet of 16 sportfishing boats out of Los Suenos Resort and Marina near Jaco. It offers full- and half-day inshore and offshore charters, custom packages and sunset cruises (phone 506-2637-8942; http://www.costaricadreams.com). Bubba's Costa Rica Fishing Report offers half- and full-day fishing trips on boats ranging in size from 26 ft/8 m to 60 ft/18 m. Phone 506-2778-7217 or 506-8841-5109. http://www.costaricafishingreport.com.

 

The best fishing on the Caribbeancoast is found in the canals and rivers around Barra del Colorado, Tortuguero and Parismina.

 

Big marlin and sailfish are caught off the Pacific coast, tarpon and snook on the Caribbeanside. Tour companies also can arrange trips for trout in the mountain streams and rainbow bass (guapote) in LakeArenal. Contact Richard Krug, former sportfishing columnist for The Tico Times. He books sportfishing trips throughout the country. Phone 506-2282-7215 or toll-free from North America800-407-9438. http://www.richardkrug.com.

 

Golf

 

Golf continues to grow hand-in-hand with Costa Rica's tourism boom. Golfers have plenty of courses to choose from, ranging from modest nine-hole courses to an Arnold Palmer-designed 18-hole, par-72 championship course. Some of the newest courses are at Los Suenos Marriot Ocean & Golf Resort (http://www.golflaiguana.com) and the Four Seasons Papagayo, which is only open to resort guests. Phone 800-819-5053.

 

Hiking & Walking

 

Hiking and walking trails abound throughout Costa Rica. There are even beautiful hikes just outside of the capital in the hills of Escazu. Many of the most-visited national parks have well-maintained trails, many of which are accessible for beginning to intermediate hikers. For more advanced hikers, there is no shortage of challenging treks. Many hotels also organize guided hikes for guests, an activity that is often included in the room rate. The elements, in particular the humidity, create one of the greatest obstacles to hikers and walkers.

 

Costa Rican mountaineer Warner Rojas, founder of the tour agency Pico Tours, organizes regular hikes around Costa Ricafor all ability levels. Pico Tours also creates custom itineraries. Phone 506-2289-6135. http://www.picotours.com.

 

Horseback Riding

 

Countryfolk throughout Costa Ricastill rely on horses for transportation, and horseback riding is a popular activity everywhere. Almost every area will have a setting that is ideal for a horseback ride—along the many beaches or through a tropical forest to an isolated swimming pool at the base of a waterfall. The waterfall at La Fortuna (near Arenal) and the terrain of the Central Valleymake for splendid rides as well. Because companies change frequently, it's best to check with hotel tour desks or front-desk personnel for information on where horseback riding is available.

 

Scuba & Snorkeling

 

Don't expect Caribbean-style scuba diving or snorkeling in Costa Rica. Most diving is off the Pacific coast, where the water is rougher, colder and cloudier. You'll see fewer coral reefs but a good number of fish and large sea turtles.

 

Shopping

 

Shop for gold replicas of pre-Columbian jewelry, Guaitil pottery, traditional miniature painted oxcarts, jewelry made of semiprecious stones, hand-painted feathers, wood carvings and leather goods. The quality of crafts has increased immensely—especially noteworthy are the exquisite wooden bowls and finely crafted boxes of variegated hardwoods.

For local treats such as coffee, rum, coffee liqueur, macadamia nuts and hearts of palm, try virtually any hotel gift store, plus the exceptional Cafe Britt stores in JuanSantamariaInternationalAirportand throughout the country. Coffee is relatively cheap in Costa Rica: A law requires that a portion of the annual crop remains in the country for domestic consumption. However, stick with the export quality brands, which are immeasurably better. The larger supermarkets have excellent coffee selections.

 

Costa Ricahas a population that believes strongly in folk medicine. As a result, you'll find stalls in most markets that are run by herbalists displaying plants, spices and other remedies.

 

San Jose has some of the best options for shopping. Vendors set up shop on the west end of the Plaza de la Democracia to sell T-shirts, leather goods, jewelry and handicrafts. The crowded Central Market has practically everything—from fresh produce to souvenirs. Across the street is the Flower Market, which has more handicraft items. The National Artisans Market sells reproductions of pre-Columbian gold jewelry and wood carvings, and the souvenir marketplace at La Casona offers a substantial supply of affordable gifts. The Museumof Pre-Columbian Goldin the Plaza de la Cultura sells handcrafted replicas of museum pieces as well as contemporary jewelry styles.

 

The two largest craft sources are the San Josesuburb of Moravia, and Sarchi, about 30 mi/48 km west of San Jose. Each has dozens of shops selling every imaginable craft and indigenous item. Fine art by Costa Rica's growing body of accomplished artists is available at galleries in the center of San Jose. Many galleries and design stores are located in Barrio Amon.

Nine blocks of Avenida Central in downtown San Joseare blocked to vehicular traffic and form a shopping promenade. This has become known as the largest open-air shopping mall in Latin Americaand features every kind of shop and store imaginable. For upscale shopping, head to Multiplaza Escazu, a huge indoor mall selling all of the latest fashions. There are also restaurants and a movie theater.

 

Shopping Hoursare generally Monday-Friday 8:30-11:30 amand 2-6 pm, Saturday 8:30-11:30 am.

 

Dining

 

Good Costa Rican cuisine is available in many venues throughout the country, from fine-dining establishments to small restaurants that carry a mixed menu to modern-mall food courts to small local, family-run places called sodas.

 

San Josehas some excellent restaurants, and many of them are found in the small hotels that have been created from old coffee-baron mansions. This includes the wonderful Hotel Grano de Oro and El Oasis Restaurant in Hotel Santo Tomas. The Amon District has any number of these great small-hotel restaurants.

 

Of course, there are many great stand-alone restaurants throughout the San Josemetropolitan area, including the always popular Tin-Jo (Asian), Le Chandelier (French), El Balcon de Europa (Italian and Continental), La Esquina de Buenos Aires (Argentinean), Machu Picchu(Peruvian) and Cafe Moro (Mediterranean). Also, the four- and five-star hotels and resorts that have sprung up all over Costa Ricaprovide some terrific gourmet restaurants.

 

One of Costa Rica's delightful peculiarities is that, because the country is a magnet for Europeans, there are superb international restaurants, even in out-of-the-way places. German, Swiss, Italian and Greek eateries abound, with good food at reasonable prices. You'll also find a wide variety of international cuisine, including excellent Chinese and Italian food, in San Jose.

 

A casado (which means "married") is a set-price meal, often eaten for lunch. It typically consists of black beans, rice, picadillo (diced vegetables and sometimes meat), meat and either yucca or maduro (fried banana). Gallo pinto (black beans and rice alone) becomes addictive and is the national dish, especially popular at breakfast. Salsa lizano is a typical breakfast condiment and common ingredient in gallo pinto. On the Caribbean, gallo pinto is flavored with coconut.

 

Other local specialties are palmitos (hearts of palm, usually served in a salad) and cajeta (a thick dessert made of milk and sugar). Bocas are appetizers—ranging from fried potatoes and yucca to broiled steak and fish—that are served with beer or cocktails. The tamales and corvina (sea bass) are especially good. Don't order mondongo unless you like tripe.

 

Meals in Costa Ricaare even nicer when accompanied by fresh juice, and there are all kinds of wonderful tropical fruits, including mangoes, papayas, pineapples that rival Hawaiian fruit, sweet ripe melons and zapotes (a fruit with an orangelike pulp that resembles an avocado). These fruits find their way into delicious and refreshing batidos (shakes) made with milk or water.

 

A nice way to savor Costa Rica's coffee is to take a tour of the Cafe Britt Coffee plantation in Heredia, where you can sample blends from local beans. It has a large gift shop and restaurant, as well. There are Britt gift shops throughout Costa Ricain airport terminals, resorts, hotels and tourist attractions, where they freely dispense samples of coffee, chocolate and chocolate-covered nuts and fruits. And all make greatly appreciated souvenirs. Also popular is the Monteverde Coffee Tour at the fair-trade certified CoopeSanta Elena in Monteverde.

 

Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

 

If the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve were Costa Rica's only attraction, nature lovers would still flock to the country. This reserve, on the steep slopes of a mountain range and 120 mi/195 km northwest of San Jose, is home to rare and unusual wildlife, including jaguars and pumas, although the thick vegetation and daily mists from which the reserve takes its name can make viewing them difficult.

 

Among the 450 species of birds in the reserve are emerald toucanets and the aptly named resplendent quetzal. Listen for the call of the three-wattled bellbird, which emits a loud metallic "bonk" in the ear of a potential mate. The best birding occurs September-April when many birds are migratory.

 

Getting to Monteverde used to be tough: You had to spend several hours on dreadful roads. However, the paved road now continues to the town of Guacimal, and plans are in place to finish it all the way to Santa Elena. An extended stay is a good idea in high season (December-May), because you may have to wait a few hours to be admitted to the park. (The number of people allowed in is limited.)

 

The hiking trails in the reserve are excellent but sometimes muddy. Take rain gear, as well as warm clothing in any season.

 

The community of Monteverde, near the reserve, is an interesting stop. It was founded in the early 1950s by American Quakers who were attracted to Costa Ricabecause of its lack of an army. The Quakers built a cheese factory in this pleasant town and have taken charge of maintaining the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and raising funds for its expansion. If you visit the cheese factory, you can try all the local specialties, including the beloved Palmito cheese. (If not, you can purchase Monteverde cheese in almost any market.) There are also coffee plantations that offer tours.

 

Comfortable accommodations, including a wide range of alpine lodges, are available, but be sure to book well in advance. It can be difficult to get around Monteverde because of its mountainous terrain, but taxis (all four-wheel-drive vehicles) are easily accessible and affordable.

 

The main village is Santa Elena, about 1 mi/2 km below Monteverde, which is actually a community of widely dispersed individual homes. Most services and facilities are in Santa Elena, which has some of the more interesting attractions locally. Our favorite is the serpentarium, displaying all manner of snakes. The local community operates the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, with all the same species (plus spider monkeys) as the more popular Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.

 

Nearby Selvatura offers several attractions, including a rain-forest canopy walk plus the Jewels of the Rainforest insect collection.

 

Small businesses have sprung up to cater to the influx of travelers. The businesses tend to be environmentally and culturally sensitive—from a gallery specializing in hummingbird art and feeders to cooperatives selling local women's needlework to a small butterfly garden. (The ingenious camouflage techniques employed by caterpillars and chrysalises are fascinating—some look like leaves, raindrops or foul-tasting beetles.)

 

Arenal National Park

 

 

Located about 60 miles northwest of San Jose, Arenal National Park encompasses a large area in northwest Costa Rica, but the most remarkable feature—one of the most impressive sights in the country, in fact—is Arenal Volcano, which has been active since a surprise eruption in 1968.

 

One of the most popular places for viewing Arenal is at its base, where a volcano-heated stream flows into a small waterfall and then diverts into a series of mineral baths that are part of Tabacon Hot Springs, a resort complex with eight swimming pools. (It welcomes day visitors as well as overnight guests.) You can lie in the pools at night and listen to Arenal erupt.

 

Because eruptions and weather are unpredictable, it's best to spend at least one night near the volcano, either in the town of La Fortunaor at one of the lodges in the area to maximize chances of viewing the almost daily eruptions (you can ask to be awakened if an eruption happens at night). La Fortuna has a good selection of accommodations, and a nearby waterfall is a worthwhile excursion for experienced hikers. You also can ride horses up to the lava flow, which is also accessible by hiking trails.

 

The volcano is still considered a potential danger when approaching areas susceptible to pyroclastic flows, so use a qualified guide for these hikes and horseback rides. Note that the side of the crater where lava flows originate will vary as the crater wall builds up and collapses. Viewing the fiery eruptions in the evening may be possible from one location and not possible from there a year later.

 

LakeArenalis just west of the volcano, with fishing, hotels and, at the western end of the lake, windsurfing. In fact, some rate it as a world-class spot for the sport because of the strong and constant winds. The vistas are fantastic; many hotels have both lake and volcano views.

 

Although it's only 20 miles (as the crow flies) from Arenal Volcano to Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, the indirect roads and bus connections take the better part of a day. If you're not driving, it's possible to travel via a more direct route, taking a boat across LakeArenal. Combined service by Jeep, motorboat and then taxi cuts the trip even more.

 

Guanacaste

 

 

Costa Rica's Guanacaste province is heralded as the "next Hawaii," with a tremendous building boom that includes a number of five-star hotels and resorts and large condominium projects. The reopening of the DanielOduberInternationalAirportin the capital city of Liberiahas helped fuel this phenomenon, with more than 20 airlines using the airport, some with nonstop flights from the U.S.

 

Some of Costa Rica's most beautiful and expansive beaches are located in Guanacaste, and many of them have black volcanic sand. The contrast of these ebony-sand beaches with sparkling blue waves crashing on them, bordered by verdant forest, is striking. Some of them, such as Tamarindo, are favorites of the surfing crowd.

 

The forests that abound in Guanacaste are dry tropical forests as opposed to tropical rain forests found in the rest of the country. The weather is drier than the rest of the country and subject to drought. Along with cattle ranches, the province has a large cowboy population.

 

The city of Nicoya, located in the middle of the NicoyaPeninsula, is considered a center of arts and crafts for the Provinceof Guanacaste.

 

Guanacaste technically includes the entire NicoyaPeninsulabut, because of the difficulties in traveling between the northern and southern areas of the peninsula, administration of the three southern cantons (counties) has been assigned to PuntarenasProvince. This adds to tourists' confusion regarding what is PuntarenasProvince, what is PuntarenasCity, and why the NicoyaPeninsulais sometimes considered Guanacaste and sometimes Puntarenas.

 

Guanacaste has the distinction as the only province to voluntarily join Costa Ricaafter Central America's liberation from Spainon 15 September 1821, a date celebrated as Independence Day in all Central American countries. In 1825, the citizens of Guanacaste voted to leave Nicaraguaand join Costa Rica.

 

To commemorate that act, the government declared the national tree of Costa Ricato be the guanacaste tree, a large spreading tree that grows primarily in Guanacaste. The seed pod resembles a human ear, and the name given to the tree is taken from the indigenous Indian name guana (tree) and caste (ear).

 

 

Manuel Antonio National Park

 

 

One of the most popular parks in Costa Rica, located 30 miles south of San Jose, Manuel Antonio National Park has become the focus of the debate that concerns Costa Rica as a whole. It was intended to preserve nature, but its popularity threatens the environment that visitors go to see.

 

Responding to some of the ill effects of mass visitation (including pollution from hotels and automobiles and deleterious interactions between humans and wildlife), the government has taken steps to limit the number of visitors to Manuel Antonio: Camping is no longer allowed, the park is closed on Monday, and only 600-800 visitors are allowed in daily, depending on the day of the week.

 

After wading through an estuary at the entrance to the park—anywhere from ankle deep to waist deep, depending on the tides—you can choose from exceptional white-sand beaches. (For a small fee, a boat will paddle you across.) Playa Espadilla Sur—also called SecondBeach—is especially good for snorkeling and swimming.

 

A network of trails runs through the forest, allowing you to observe an abundance of wildlife: birds, white-faced capuchin monkeys, coatis, sloths, and colorful crabs and lizards. There are a number of activities that you can enjoy in the area surrounding the park, including rafting, surfing, sea kayaking, horseback riding and sportfishing (especially for sailfish mid-December to late April).

 

One excursion to consider is the Canopy-Safari trip, which includes breakfast, a Jeep ride into the forest and ziplining and rappelling through the forest. You can go in the morning and spend time on the beach when you return.

 

If you're planning to stay several days in the Manuel Antonio area, try to get a room at one of the hotels that line the road between the park and the town of Quepos. They're more expensive than those in town, and you must book well in advance, but they're worth it: Many are discretely built into the jungle and take you close to the wildlife—we saw a sloth ever so slowly cross the road in front of our hotel.

 

Quepos, a fishing town with a marina, several sportfishing operators and a base for local activities, boasts a large number of restaurants and modest accommodations, plus shops and art galleries where you can catch up on your souvenir shopping.