What a thrill it was to confirm my invitation to sail aboard the Queen Mary 2.  Cunard had invited my husband Bryant and me to join a select group of cruise industry executives, journalists and other agency owners for a special 3-day/2night sailing from Ft Lauderdale fresh from her maiden Trans-Atlantic Voyage.

 

My experience with trans-oceanic vessels and their crossings goes way back to the 1960's when I set foot aboard the SS United States with my grandparents in New York Harbor.  But my first real taste as an adult, was aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2 in the mid-1980's with my husband for a classic New York to Southampton crossing.  Now with numerous crossings on both large and small ships under my belt, I was eager to see if the QM2 could live up to the publicity and my expectations.

 

We found ourselves in Ft Lauderdale on a sunny but cool day in January—high 60's, perfect weather to get the feel of a crossing.  With the exception of the chaos that comes with boarding 2800 passengers in approximately 3hrs, embarkation moved along quite well.  Passengers are issued a photo ID card, which serves as your room key, charge card and security ID.  Entering on Deck 3, we proceeded to the bank of elevators just off the Grand Lobby. 

 

The Grand Lobby is the first major space you see on boarding QM2.  The lobby itself is on 2 decks (Deck 2 and 3) while the atrium extends upwards 6 decks.  A dramatic brass sculptural relief of the QM2 extends to the ceiling and gives you just a hint of how much money they have spent on this ship.  The Grand Promenade is a wide thoroughfare in the heart of the ship lined with large bronze murals depicting the four civilizations of man and extends the opulence.

 

The various decks aboard the QM2 do not have catchy names, like “Vista” or “Main Deck” but are numbered 2-13.  This can add to a bit of confusion as you try to remember which deck to get off on.  And on the largest ship afloat---you need all the help you can get.   To say she's large is a slight understatement. She's huge.  With approximately 3 laps to the mile, you don't want to make a wrong turn. 

 

But we found our cabin without too much difficulty and blessedly very midship.  We had a Premium Balcony cabin on Deck 4.  Nearly 80% of QM2's staterooms have ocean views and over 94% have private balconies.  But there are two types of balconies.  Decks 4, 5 and 6 have balconies that are more of a “picture window “sized hull cut-out.  That is, while you are sitting in your lounge chair you have a great view of the sky, but you have to stand up and lean over to really see the water.  Decks 8 and up, have what I would really call a “balcony” with a clear glass railing and a feeling that you are really ‘out there”. 

 

But with a generous 269sq ft, I wasn't complaining.  All of the cabins are extremely stylish, featuring a slight retro contemporary look of blonde woods, cream satins and sharp black accents.  Reminds me of an old 1920's Hollywood movie.   The sitting area has a leather loveseat and a nifty dual-height coffee table that can be used if you take advantage of the 24hr room service.  By using the interactive TV, you can take a ship tour, check out the dinner menu, or review your onboard account.  After about 15 minutes of pressing various buttons I was able to navigate it pretty well. 

 

And so you need not fear messing up the beautiful comforter, a vinyl “leatherette” pad had been thoughtfully place on the bed in anticipation of our arrival with the wording “Luggage Here”.      I was also pleased to find two very large closets with a center bank of drawers and shelves and complimentary cotton waffle bathrobes.  (Occupants of the Junior Suites (P1 and up) get the added luxury of a walk-in closets and thick cotton terry robes).  I also liked the bathroom as it featured plenty of counter space and storage under the sink with ample room to store my toiletries.  Although a basket of Canyon Ranch “goodies”   had most of my attention and the shower stall large enough for 2.

 

Unpacked and pleased with my cabin, I felt it was time to begin a through exploration of the ship.

 

First, let me say that once you start taking trans-Atlantic crossings you really don't care where you are going or how long it takes.  The ship, sky and the sea become the focus of all of your attentions.  It's a chance to disconnect from the world for a few days.  And that's what makes this ship very different from the other super liners cruising around.  She was designed and built to keep you focused on the ship- inside.  And her designers stayed pretty true to old “ocean-crossing” principles. Weather on a crossing isn't always warm and sunny and The North Atlantic can be quite unpredictable and a tad on the cool side.  

 

Deck space although plentiful, isn't really appropriated for a lot of sun-bathing. The pool areas located aft, are actually quite minimal in comparison to other ships of her size-no jumbo water slide here!  Even the indoor pool with retractable roof is about a third of the normal size.  And most of the top deck is just that---Deck--and lots of it, with        wide open spaces to roam.  This is not bad, just very different from what's out there right now. 

 

Because of her extreme size I felt rather removed from the water.  On a crossing, I spend at least 70% of my time on deck, and get a great sense of relaxation from watching the ocean roll by, but on the QM2, I found it difficult to locate a spot where I could feel really in touch with the sea.  The sea on the QM2 is best viewed leaning on a railing for 15 to 20 minutes or lounging for an hour or so in one of the charming teak deck chairs on Deck 7 the “Promenade” deck, before you head back inside for another activity or two.

 

Every where you turn there is a real sense of style and attention to detail.  I think they really paid a lot of attention to the success of “Titanic” the movie.  With so many people having been on a cruise when the movie came out, there was a real interest in what cruise travel was like in the 1920's.  So many of the design elements are reminiscent of the original Queen Mary (now a hotel in Long Beach Harbor) and of the other famous ships now long gone.  It's an impressive blend of “Art Nouveau”, “Art Deco” and 21^st century contemporary styling.    Throughout the ship panels depict the “Maritime Quest”.  This is the first every permanent exhibition aboard an ocean liner.  The panels wind throughout the ship on every deck showcasing the history of Cunard's first Atlantic crossing in 1840 to the building of QM2.  ”   Nautical buffs should really enjoy this as it brings into focus the “grand tradition of cruising” and other great maritime ventures.

 

Although I had good intentions, to make an organized tour, I spent the better part of 2 hours just wandering around before I met my husband for a “restorative” cocktail in the Golden Lion Pub before dinner.  And now that we are on the subject of cocktails QM2 has several different options to enjoy the beverage of your choice.  Just

Off the Lower Grand Promenade on Deck 2, The Golden Lion Pub where we had settled had a large TV devoted to ESPN sports and specialized in “on tap” beers, such as Boddingtons and Guinness with light pub food served for lunch.  As a pub setting, I felt it was a bit too “wide open” and it lacked that “snug” feel that I enjoy so much in a real English pub.

 

Wine lovers will find the Sir Samuel's Wine Cellar a much cozier haven and it is a better meeting spot for joining up with friends before dinner.  The small Veuve Cliquot Champagne Bar also proved to be a trendy spot, all done up in cool mint green tones.  But with 14 bars you are sure to find something to suit your mood.

 

Now a word about meeting up with your friends, or making new ones, this ship is so large that it is easy to lose people unless you make definite plans to meet up later.  The following day I lost my husband for over 5 hours after lunch.  I'd go so far as to suggest bringing an inexpensive walkie- talkie, just to avoid the dreaded “where have you been?” conversation.

 

Perhaps one of the most impressive spaces on board is The Britannia Restaurant, seating 1347 guests in 2 seatings.  For maximum stabilization at sea, it is located low on Decks 2 and 3, but actually spans the space of 3 stories with an enormous stained glass “false” skylight.  A tapestry of a past Cunard liner hangs at the centerpiece.  Breakfast and lunch are open seating with 2 seatings for dinner.  Dining in here one feels elegant.   But I'm sorry to say that our meal fell short of our expectations.  Earlier in the day the ship had played host to 2000 “land-based” visitors for a luncheon, so I don't think the kitchens and wait staff were able to get back into the swing of things.  Service was slow, then rushed and some courses came out too quickly.  Also I felt the portions were a bit small- so I ordered 2 deserts.  At “sea” one dines leisurely, the end of this meal I was tired.

 

After dinner we decided to see the “show”.  The main showroom is the Royal Court Theatre, decorated in red with two-level seating.  The performers are graduates from London's Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts and were quite a talented group to watch.  I was even more impressed with the special effects of the stage and elaborate sets. 

 

The next morning, with full “to see” list, I was eager to get going.  I took the option of returning to the Britannia Restaurant for breakfast.  This also allowed me to give the wait staff another chance.  A mix of British and eastern European young men and women, they seemed a bit more on the ball, but I still found the service to be sporadic.   The Britannia Restaurant is open for all three meals with full menu service, and is a great alternative if you do not like to stand in buffet lines.

 

With media and travel professionals aboard, eager to peak behind every door, Cunard had arranged for a number of cabins in every category to be on full view. So it was comforting to see that even in an inside cabin, one could find the same standard of quality and amenities as found in the more expensive larger cabins.   My least favorite were the Inside Atrium Cabins, with a large window that looks into the inside atrium.  With the extra cost, you gain nothing with this feature and to maintain your privacy you must keep the curtains closed as other atrium cabin occupants can see right in.  But my whole philosophy on inside cabins is rather dim; I've always said it's like taking a vacation in your walk-in closet!

 

But the good news on the QM2 is that no cabins are located on a promenade deck—one where people can walk out side your window and are frequently found peeking in your window to see what your cabin looks like.  The only other area I am cautious about are the B3-Deluxe Balcony Cabins on Deck 8.  Mid-ship, the life boats create an obstructed view.  This makes a jump up to Deck 11 or 12 my prime choice for considering a B1 or B2 Deluxe Balcony Cabin.   

 

Past this, and you move into the world of suites.  Is a 6 day cruise worth $27,000 per person?  Well in one of the 4 Grand Duplex Suites, quite possibly.  It's truly amazing to see 2249 square feet of extravagance.  The Balmoral and Sandringham Suites have sweeping living rooms with an expansive balcony off the stern.  With a home office work area, fully stocked bar, and a private dining area for 8, you might not need to leave your cabin all day.  Go up the sweeping staircase and you'll find the master bedroom, complete with its own private exercise equipment, his and hers dressing rooms and connecting bathrooms. 

 

Don't quite need that much space?  I thought the P1 and P2 Junior Suites were wonderful.  These spacious 348 sq. ft. cabins have a large double-sized balcony with loungers and tables.  Inside there is a spacious sitting area with a full sized sofa, serving bar area, perfect for having friends in.  A vanity area across from a large walk-in closet leads to a very large bathroom with a tub-shower combination.  A “winner” without breaking the bank.   I quess now it would be a good time to mention that the old” formal class system” has been long done away with, except in one area.  In addition to the Britannia Restaurant, there are two other main dining rooms, the Princess Grille for Junior Suite occupants and the Queens Grille for those in the full suites.  Diners in these restaurants are allowed more creativity and flexibility in their dining options. 

 

With lunch on my mind I joined up with my husband and decided to take a chance on the dining options located on Deck 7.  For breakfast and lunch, the casual Kings Court dining complex has multiple buffet stations and converts into 3 different themed restaurants (Italian, Asian and an English Carvery) for dinner.  A small 35 seat space called the Chefs Galley is set aside for diners who would like to watch as the chefs demonstrate the preparation of their meal.  This is the only venue on board for which an extra charge of $35/pp is made, but that includes champagne, red and white wine.   After taking a survey of all of the buffet stations, we lined up with our trays in hand.  About 80% of all of the items were the same but some of the stations had a few different selections, it was easy to get a bit lost as I went from one station to the next to assemble my lunch.  Normally I like buffets for breakfast and lunch as I can pick and choose what I want and go back for a bit more if I like something, but I really wasn't that impressed with the offered choices, so I made the best of what I found.  I also have a few concerns about how these areas convert into separate restaurants at night.  A lot of the tables are close to the edge of the walk areas and I don't know how comfortable I would be having dinner with passengers constantly walking past our table.

 

After lunch it was time to get back to work.  Staying on Deck 7 I passed thru the Winter Garden, an area based on the conservatory at Kew Gardens. With lots of wicker and rattan, English tea is served here and this looks like the place to curl up with a good book.

 

Working my way towards the bow I found myself at the reception desk of the Canyon Ranch Spa Club.  Buzzing with activity and covering over 20,000 sq ft on 2 decks this is the largest health spa afloat.  This area features a Thalassotherapy pool, massage and skin care treatments, an aromatic steam room, a therapy pool, a Finnish Sauna, thermal lounge and 20 treatment rooms.  Over 50 Canyon Ranch spa personnel are on site to put you back into shape.  This is a beautiful area and the perfect place to hang out for the day on land or at sea.  I was also pleasantly surprised to see that the rates for the services were actually very similar to day spa rates in Charlotte.  With any treatment, you get full use of all of the water areas for the day.  If you just want to try the sauna or the therapy pools, you can buy a day pass for as low as $19/ for the day. 

 

To enhance this aspect of getting into shape, the QM2 has an enormous Fitness Center. The Gym and Weight rooms, have just about every machine conceivable, I saw at least 20 treadmills, which will give comfort to those who want to get off weighing the same as they did when they got on.   Important Note:  QM2 does not serve a midnight buffet.

 

But I prefer to exercise while shopping.  The Mayfair Shops are a collection of stores located off the Grand Lobby and range from Hermes (couture clothes) and H. Sterns (jewelry) to a camera shop.  The main store, with a wide assortment of QM2 logo wear proved to be a crowd favorite.  Along with the other hoard of busy shoppers I came away with a bag full of goodies. 

 

Throughout the ship there is an extensive use of wood paneling and art everywhere all enhanced by mood setting halogen lights.  Though some pieces were comptemporary, the majority of works were traditional nautical ship paintings.  A gallery in itself!

 

The Illuminations Planetarium takes the prize for the most unique place on the ship.  An enormous semi-domed metal screen hangs from the ceiling re-creating the night sky overhead.  Seats recline at the touch of a lever as you enjoy sit back and enjoy a celestial sightseeing tour.  I love stargazing, so this was right up my alley.

 

Just around the corner I found ConneXions, operated by Oxford Discovery Program.  Featuring seven flexible classrooms, that offers instruction ranging from wine appreciation, foreign languages to navigation.  And just when I thought I could hide, I found their computer learning center.  But really, this is a great place to take an hour or two and learn about something you don't have time for at home.

 

Along that same thought, I was amazed when I found the Library.  Normally most ships offer a few tired editions and well-worn paper backs, the QM2 Library is outstanding.  Stocked with 8,000 hardcover, 500 paperbacks, and over 200 audio books all contained in stunningly rich mahogany glass cases, you'd need never fear having nothing to read.  Don't know where to start?  Then, just ask the full time librarians what they recommend.

 

As the sun slowly began to set on the horizon, I realized it was time to dress for dinner.  Tonight was to be a “formal” affair, with an Admiral's Cocktail Party in the Queens Room, the largest ballroom at sea.  With a dramatic high arched ceiling, crystal chandeliers and ocean views on each side.  Our crowd was dressed to the “nines” and the room teemed with tuxedoed men and ladies in elegant outfits, very reminiscent of the heyday of ocean liners from the 1920's- to the 1950's we slowly began our migration to dinner back in the Britannia Restaurant.

 

Tonight, it all came together.  Our service was with a smile, courses were timely delivered and the cuisine was excellent as our table toasted the Queen Mary 2.  I started with an excellent escargot, followed by a delicate cold ginger leek soup and walnut-studded blue cheese salad.  A delicate crispy orange duck was served as my main course.  My dinner companions were equally delighted with their selections as well. 

 

After dinner, we took a turn through the Empire Casino, charming with a bit of Parisian flair, but as I am not a gambler, we didn't linger long.  We did however drop in at the G32 Night Club, a fun trendy area with a dazzling array of special effects and music before turning in. 

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Snug in our cabin I paused before closing my eyes and asked myself the most important question of all, would I like to return for another cruise aboard the QM2? 

Probably.  But for me, my idea of heaven is a trans-Atlantic crossing of 14 days, so with only 5 days for a crossing on the QM2, I'd be just getting “warmed up” before it was time to get off.  I'd be much happier choosing one of her longer itineraries, mixing up days at sea with stops in more exotic ports of call. 

 

In reflection, as I compare my cruise aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2 with the Queen Mary 2, I tend to think of the QE2 as the grandmother, old-school, formal and the last of her kind.  The QM2 is more like your aunt, youthful, fun loving, interesting, but who still expects you mind your manners and sit up straight.  It is just this split personality approach that Cunard hopes will appeal to the traditional ocean liner passenger and the rapidly emerging Baby Boomers who will be soon giving her a try.

 

Considering her size, I think they are on the right track.  There is plenty to do if you are concerned about what to do with your time for 5 days.  .Take a longer one of her 12-15 day cruises and she'll serve you well as a floating hotel.   Large ship cruisers who have experienced the Caribbean, Alaska and the Med and are looking for something new should be quite pleased with a cruise aboard the QM2.  Those used to small ship crossings may feel a bit over whelmed and distanced from the sea.  But she has a full menu of itineraries and offers something for everyone.

 

As with any new vessel, you have to expect an adjustment period.  Even with practice, 1200 crew members need time to learn how to work together.  Life aboard ship can be quite demanding and is not for everyone.  Service is the main issue here and I suspect it will take several weeks to work all the kinks out and get into a proper routine to provide the level of service and meet the expectations of a demanding public.  Cunard has a reputation to live up to, but The Queen Mary 2 is well poised to take up the challenge.

 

Vital Statistics of the Most Expensive Passenger Liner Ever Built:

 

Built:     Alston Chantiers de “l'Alantique, St Nazare France

Naming Ceremony:       Jan 8, 2004

Maiden Voyage:           Jan 12, 2004

Ships Registry:  Great Britain

Occupancy:                  2,620

Tonnage:                      151,400

Length:             1,132'

Beam:                           135'

Draft:                            32'8'

Cruising Speed:            Between 24 and 26 knots

Officers/Crew:              1,238

Decks:                          17        (14 Passenger Decks)

Elevators:                     22

 

2004 Itineraries:

Regularly scheduled trans-Atlantics crossings between Southampton and New York.  In addition to cruises to the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, South America, the Caribbean and Canada. 

 

Between August 12-30, 2004, QM2 will serve as a floating hotel in Athens for the 2004 Summer Olympics