"On the Road" with Nancy Cutter

Follow Nancy Cutter's trip notes as she travels around the world

Betty Cowles - Trip to Israel - February 2010

Trips notes to be uploaded shortly!

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  • Aug 27, 2009- Husavik, Iceland

    10/27/20095:31:17 PM Link |  | Add comment

    We are now in Husavik. 

    On Monday, we left Reykholt and drove thru the most beautiful mountain ranges we have ever seen towards the northern fjords.  By noon we made it to Varmahilo and met with the operators of the river-rafting tour Hestasport in Varmhilo.  Luckily the rain which had started in the morning cleared to a beautiful sunny warm 65F day.  We suited up into drysuits and 8 of us loaded into a large van with our guides (one from South Africa and another from Nepal) 30 minutes down a dirt road.

    We disembarked and added life vests to our outfits, went to the waters edge and loaded 5 to a raft.  The water was actually a bit low, but that was okay as it gave us more time to enjoy the towering cliffs on our way down the west river.  10 minutes into the ride, we hit a stretch of rapids and BW went over in a flip.  He was back in in a flash and we carried on.  The dry suit had rupper suction grommets at our heads and hands so minimal water comes in. Another 20 minutes and we pulled to shore to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate, made with boiling water that was coming up at the river edge.  It was too hot to stick your finger into!  Totally unreal!
     
    Then we set off again for about another hour, before pulling off again.  This time our guide said something about a cliff jump.  Whoa - I had serious doubts as I found myself climbing up a steep rock face.  One by one everyone was jumping off this ledge about 30 feet high onto the swirling river below.  When my turn came - I had to do some serious talking to myself and I don’t even remember jumping in, just hitting the water, going under and bobbing up, then swimming to shore.  Truly something you could never do in the US.

    On our way, they let you even float in your suits down the river! Our trip was about 3 hrs and loads of fun.  Luckily one of the girls (BW was the only boy on our trip) said she got me with her camera jumping….
     
    After all of the water, we were really dry and so continuing our trip to Dalvik later that afternoon was quite easy. 

     
    Dalvik is a very small town on a beautiful fjord Eylajford, with high mountains all around.  The town was nothing much, about 600 with our hotel and one pizza restaurant in town.  We had - obviously pizza that night and then treated myself to a soft serve ice cream at the local 7/11.  But as fate would have it, we were crossing a parking lot just before reaching the hotel and I tripped on the curb and went down on both knees hard.  Bounced up, but lost a very deep patch of skin off my left hand, about the size of a quarter. My right knee took it hard too, but didn’t damage my corduroys.  Later my knee was pretty messed up as well, so I spent the night with an ice bag on my knee and 3 Motrin on board- praying that the whole thing was just a dream.
     
    The next morning I was pretty lame, unable to bend my knee at all.  Thank goodness we were touring by car to Sigluford (Siglufjörður).  The town by the same name is only accessible by one road in, via tunnel. Before the tunnel, you had to arrive by boat, but it was the herring capital of the world.  They had a really cool museum of this industry (now dead) in three buildings, that was worth the $8 admission.  But the best was to come.  With a sunny day in the harbor, we found a cute little cafe painted blue and so charming on the inside right on the wharf.  I was hungry for lunch - BW had eaten leftover pizza earlier in the car.  The owner said he had a nice arctic char (similar to a salmon but better) that he would prepare for me.  And it was fantastic, served pan fried in garlic butter, with a salad, buttery baked potato with sour cream and little shrimp on top. Seated outside in the sun we spent close to 2 hours chatting with him and another fellow about Iceland, and the world.  Then a woman walked up with a big camera and asked to take my picture - she was working on the town’s website and was taking photos of visitors for the site.  All in all a really fun afternoon, we had a 2 hr drive to get back to Dalvik.  When we returned it was raining in Dalvik and the prospect of the local pizza place combined with my lunch. This is where my goodie bag with granola bars and local yogurt comes in handy for a snack. We decided to just stay in as watch TV and get to bed early. 

    So this brings us to Wednesday.  We checked out of our hotel and headed to Akureyi the 2nd largest town in Iceland at 16,000. Wow what a busy place, no not really, but it’s on the water and they had some good tourist shops. BW found a great deal on a polarfleece jacket with a viking helmet on it and I bought a pretty Nordic sweater.  We opted for lunch from the supermarket, creamy coleslaw with pineapple, smoked ham sandwiches on like a 15 grain soft bread and drove to here to Husavik. 
     
    Now Husavik is the prettiest town we’ve seen, a charming Nordic harbor filled with sailing ships and cute Icelandic buildings.  We'd called ahead and booked the 4:45 pm whale cruise and had time to check into our hotel and went to the harbor, it was sunny but brisk wind.  On the opposite of the fjord, the mountains line up with tons of snow rimming their tops, - just like a postcard.  They warned us that most of the whales had moved on, but we braved the wind and after about an hour, BW was the one who sited a bottlenose whale on the port side.  Though our sightings were slim, it was a great cruise and they warmed up us with hot chocolate and doughnuts - cause it was really cold out there!

    Took me about an hour to defrost and then we chose a cute restaurant all done up with wood inside, very traditional (they have 3 here) for dinner, Arctic Char again with potatoes and a salad.  Very few places in the world have arctic char, so we eat when we can.
      
    Today looked a bit grim so I was happy we’d done the whale cruise yesterday.  We looked around town for a bit then drove south to see Lake Myvatn.  The topography really changes here and the mountains turn to sand hills then lava fields, huge ones.  This is where Neil Armstrong trained for the moon landing.  We first stopped at the boiling mud pits, very lunar and very smelly - of sulfur and totally incredible to see up close, some of the fissures were blowing steam that would make a tea kettle at full boil look weak.  What a contrast though with the blue skies and bright yellow sand and turquoise water.  Then we drove up to the lava fields, they had a 3 mile walk tracked thru the lava fields and around the calderas of the volcanoes.  You could put your hand down some of the crates and feel the warm moist air. The walk took about 2 hours and it was amazing to see that much lava in one place and the scope of the lava field with little hills popping up where the lava didn't cover.
     
    Then, we continued our drive around the lake. There are huge chunks of lava in the lake, so huge they look like towers.  BW wanted a nap, so I did a 3 km walk by myself. Yes my knee is much better now, still weak on stairs, but fine for walking. (The abrasion of my hand will maybe take 2-3 weeks to heal.)  My walk by the lake was wonderful, so peaceful and so many birds. And did I mention they have no snakes here?  So walking is a dream, actually besides sheep and horses they only have a fox in the wild- so it’s hiking with no worries!  This took about 45 minutes and the serenity of the lake was quite relaxing.
     
    We drove back here to Husavik and ate again in the same place - once great - why take a chance. Tomorrow we will do another day trip out and return here for a third night, then we head south over the weekend to see the largest glacier in Europe.
    So that’s it for now.
  • 10/27/20093:21:21 PM Link |  | Add comment

    Reykjavik to Rekholt!

    August 23, 2009

    Hi Everyone! Yesterday we were in a bit of a rush, but I have some time to give you an update.

    The flight up to JFK was good but had to wait 30 minutes for luggage, luckily we were just up the stairs to the Iceland air check-in. Had time for lunch and then boarded the flight. Very nice flight. You have an interactive TV, with even a Berlitz language course, the screen was a touch screen and I learned a bit of Icelandic along the way. Time went by fast and we landed around 1130 their time (730 to us). There is a 4 hr time difference. Crazy, but we had to go thru a security screening when we got off the plane – obviously they don’t trust US x-rays. We found the Duty-Free before going thru customs and bought some Scotch and some beer (been told that its 40% higher in Iceland and it was true). Then we boarded a bus for the trip to town. It took about an hour, but they dropped us off right at the door and as it was almost 2 am we went straight to our room. A bit basic and small but the beds were very soft and comfortable.
     
    Woke round 9 and made it at last into the breakfast room by 10 am. Great clear and sunny day but a brisk wind. I'd guess about 55F. We were one block from the main shopping street and worked our way thru town. Cute shops, and most of the buildings seem to date from the 20s or 30s, nothing older, set on a beautiful harbor with mountains looming in the background. We chose what we thought was a vegetarian restaurant for lunch, but they served everything and everything was great. BW had a pulled pork sandwich and I had a Thai chicken salad, very nice. BW decided not to bring a polarfleece vest on the hope of buying one here, but there is virtually nothing, just a few t-shirts,  and jackets like the North Face - just their brands 66north - nothing visually outstanding, so we decided to go the large shopping mall. About a 20 minute walk, thru a residential area- it was a nice mall, with lots of nice stores, but no fun "I've been to Iceland" wear. Nursing a small brewing headache, we went back to the hotel for a nap and I conked out at 530 and woke at 830pm - of course sun still fully shining. We dressed to get out for dinner. Despite the daylight they stop serving dinner around 10 pm and by the time we decided on a restaurant, (they were everywhere) we sat down and said we wanted to order - she said sorry -"kitchen closed". I looked a my watch and it was 2 minutes after 10!
    Reykjavík is a real party town, so the restaurants start serving drinks and the streets were wide open, with tourists and locals ready to party. We settled for a small pizza Turkish place - BW had a pizza and I had a good pita souvlaki. Opting to rest up for tomorrows journey, we skipped the bar scene and went back to the hotel and were in bed by 11pm.
     
    Friday morning we had a bit of a drizzle but by the time we packed up it abated and we had a 15 minute walk to the Hertz location by the city center airport. They have 2 airports here the international one which is a good hour from town and the little domestic one, that is so “in town” I’m surprised we didn’t hear the planes buzzing the downtown! Luck was on our side and we actually ended up with a 4-wheel drive station wagon. It was a bit of an upgrade as they were out of the car we reserved, so all has worked out on the car. Drove back to the hotel, picked up our luggage, and we were headed out of town by 1130.
     
    Super scenery started immediately as we headed north to Bogarnes. Took about 1.5 hrs and we went to the visit a "saga site".  The Egils Saga Exhibition. This was a history museum on some of the local Viking and Icelandic settlers from 1100 AD.
     
    Very interesting audio tour on the migration and settlement of Iceland and another tour on the story of the saga of Egils. Afterwards the owners of the property treated us to a lunch. They have a really nice restaurant and everything was excellent - the bread was amazing. BW had an oriental chicken salad (beautiful grilled chicken) well presented and I had the "soup and salad" with was yummy cream of cauliflower and a fresh garden salad with a side of alfredo, smoked ham fettuccine pasta on the side -  and no --we didn’t want to leave.
     
    We headed to our hotel in the village of Reykholt. More of a hamlet. The hotel is at the site of one of Iceland's greatest history sites, with a large museum just a few steps away. But we are in the middle of nowhere, with rolling hills all around.  Our room is large, really more like a junior suite. The hotel has a wing devoted to wellness, aromatherapy rooms, massage chair rooms, and hot tubs filled with locally piped in thermal water. Wait (before we arrived, just a few miles away steam rises from the ground and you can see what looks like a stream, but the water boils at 100C, which is almost 180F from underground geothermal springs. They pipe this water to 3 towns and heat them with this water - truly amazing. The only downside is the slight sulfur-rotten egg smell from the water, which is less than appetizing). We enjoyed the massage chairs and took a dip in the naturally heated pools before dinner. We had to wait for dinner a bit as they had 80 medieval scholars in on a bus tour to serve. But they had a fellow who was a master musician in early Icelandic music play old instruments, so we had a bit of a show -gratis.
     
    Today, we slept in a bit as it was raining, but by 10 it slowed and we toured the historic sites around the hotel.  The famous Viking Saga writer Snorri Sturlison’s farmstead is beside the hotel and although the house is gone, there is this amazing 11thC stone “hottub”. Perfectly round, it had a seating bench, fed by the natural hot water- life must have been pretty good! 
     
    By noon we stopped, packed our lunch, and we took off in the car to drive the SnafellesPeninsula. Absolutely stunning scenery, volcano craters everywhere, lava fields coated in green moss, waterfalls - really does look like a storybook and close to New Zealand but has a much older feel, you actually could image dwarves and elves here. J.R.R. Tolkien set Lord of the Rings in Iceland and although it was filmed in New Zealand, I can really see it here. The highlight of today was driving around the Snafelles Glacier which was in the Jules Verne's Journey to the center of the earth. We had periods of wind and rain, but spent most of the day driving a loop  of about 150 miles and have now returned to the hotel here for another night. Tomorrow we are off towards Dalvik, with a midday stop for a white-water rafting trip in Valmhilo.
     
Days at Sea
Nancy hits the "road" in Iceland
  
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